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Y lo que diferencia a Marivent es patente desde el momento en que entras por la puerta. En la primera planta, una terraza sombreada te ofrece un lugar fresco donde cenar en verano - cuando las plantas y las cestas colgadas rebosan colores y, durante el resto del año hasta en los días más frescos de invierno, el comedor de la segunda planta bordeado de ventanucos que dan al puerto, se convierte en puesto de observación acogedor. En las dos plantas sólo hay sitio para 100 comensales así que el ambiente es íntimo, además el servicio es bueno y los camareros discretos. Contrasta marcadamente con los ir y venir de empleados y clientes en otros restaurantes del puerto durante las noches ajetreadas de verano. Francisco enfatiza que una buena comida no es sólo cuestión de comer. “Claro que puedes comer muy bien aquí in Menorca pero muchos restaurantes diseñados para turistas son buenos, bonitos y baratos - ofrecen comida sencilla”. Pero es su intención, y la de su equipo, destacar en algo más que en la gastronomía. “El buen servicio es importante”, enfatiza, “y por eso cerramos todos los martes del año. Si no cierras nunca, los empleados no tienen oportunidad de descansar”. Si los empleados están relajados hace mucho para generar un ambiente relajado, así que al venir aquí la gente se siente como en su propia casa”.
Se acerca la hora de abrir y el equipo de camareros de Francisco ha llegado, las mesas están puestas, la vajilla impecable y los clientes para hacer sus reservas han hecho sonar el teléfono varias veces. Buen servicio, ingredientes frescos y platos novedosos. Tal vez, después de todo, el éxito no tiene secreto.
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Entre bastidores, Lidia se encarga de la cocina. Aunque su formación ha sido la cocina doméstica - aprendió el oficio de la suegra - se esfuerza en modernizar lo tradicional. “Nos gusta ir a restaurantes y probar cosas nuevas”, me explicó “así que, poco a poco, he ido mezclando ambas cosas para crear un estilo diferente, que combina elementos tradicionales de aquí con un toque moderno”. Cuando la temporada lo permita, Lidia cocina con productos menorquines, pescado y marisco del lugar, quesos y salchichas del país y verduras cultivadas localmente y tiene intención de renovar la carta cuatro veces al año. Pero no es tarea fácil. “¡La verdad es que hay ciertos platos que no podemos quitar!” bromea, haciendo referencia a la ensalada de salmón en adobo, el carpaccio de langostinos y las gambas al ajillo. “Si los quitamos de la carta, la gente los reclama”.
La creatividad es la clave de la carta de Marivent - platos clásicos puestos al día con la adición de ingredientes inesperados, como la sopa de pescado tradicional pero con el higo como artista invitado o un postre clásico de chocolate con el poco usual helado de mango como guarnición. La especialidad local el alioli, no ha escapado su atención y lo han modernizado: su versión es más ligera más espumosa. Atreverse a mezclar lo tradicional con lo nuevo ha dado resultado. Los platos son tan distintivos que a la imaginación más fértil le costaría inventarlos.
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Francisco Febrer and Lidia Barber saben mucho de la buena mesa. Esta pareja, marido y mujer de Ferreries, ocupa la gerencia de Marivent, un restaurante sin pretensiones que se eleva por encima del ajetreo del puerto de Maó. Sentados en el comedor de la segunda planta que ofrece vistas envidiables del cabeceo de los yates en el agua, la pareja explica cómo ha mezclado la cocina de Menorca, la del mediterráneo y la moderna para crear una carta única.
Francisco confiesa que después de trabajar 25 años en la industria, no podría ser otro que restaurador. Ya había cruzado la isla trabajando, desde su Ferreries natal hasta Ses Salines antes de tomar el relevo de una pareja, catalán él - inglesa ella, en 2002 y la gastronomía se ha convertido en asunto familiar - su madre, su hijo y su mujer todos participan. Pero Francisco es reacio a las imitaciones así que la pareja aspira a añadir un toque contemporáneo a la cocina.
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